My journey to Erbil
By Lana Almualim, Embrace Programmes and Partnerships Manager
In February 2025, I had the privilege of traveling to Erbil, Iraq, alongside my colleagues Dr Ruth Valerio and Jamie Eyre. This trip was not just a journey to a new country but an opportunity to connect with our partners, witness their impactful work firsthand, and understand the current needs of the communities they serve. Over the course of seven days, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant culture, met inspiring individuals, and gained a deeper understanding of the challenges and opportunities facing the communities we work with.
Day 1: Meeting Archbishop Warda
Our journey began in Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. Our first stop was the Chaldean Archdiocese of Erbil, where we met Archbishop Bashar Warda. He warmly welcomed us and shared insights into the current situation of Iraqi Christians.
After years of war, displacement, and persecution — particularly during the ISIS occupation, many Christian communities remain fragmented and traumatised. Towns and villages that were once thriving hubs of Christian life still lack basic infrastructure, healthcare, and educational opportunities, making it incredibly difficult for families to envision a stable future.
Walls of the citadel of Erbil, Iraq.
The ongoing war in Gaza and the deepening humanitarian crisis in Syria, combined with escalating tensions in the region has created an atmosphere of uncertainty and fear, particularly for minority groups such as the Christians.
Yet the archbishop also talked of the resilience of the Christian community and their deep commitment to serving all Iraqis, regardless of background.
Day 2: Witnessing the vital work of Maryamana Hospital
Maryamana Hospital.
One of the most impactful visits of our trip was to Maryamana Hospital in Ankawa, a Christian-majority area in Erbil. Managed by Fr Shwan Kakona and supported by Embrace, the hospital is a beacon of hope for underserved communities - providing free or subsidised treatments for the most vulnerable patients.
However, beyond Maryamana’s inspiring example, access to healthcare in Iraq remains a significant challenge, especially for vulnerable populations. Public healthcare is theoretically available but is underfunded, under-resourced, and often inaccessible in rural areas. Private healthcare, on the other hand, is expensive and out of reach for many families struggling with unemployment or poverty.
During our tour, we witnessed the hospital’s advanced facilities and learned about its critical role in providing cancer screenings, surgeries, and chronic disease management. From August to December 2024, Maryamana Hospital served 960 patients.
Days 3-4: Visiting the Christian villages in the Levo region
The heart of our trip was the two-day roundtable meeting with our partner, CAPNI (Christian Aid Program Northern Iraq). This gathering brought together donors, partners, and stakeholders to discuss ongoing projects, challenges, and opportunities for collaboration.
During our field visits to Christian villages in the Levo region, we saw firsthand the impact of CAPNI’s projects. These villages, though remote and underserved, are home to resilient communities striving to build a better future.
One of the highlights of our visits was meeting individuals who had opened their own small businesses with CAPNI’s support, from hair salons and supermarkets to electricity technician workshops.
Beekeeping business, set up with help of loan from CAPNI.
These businesses not only provide essential services to their communities but also create much-needed livelihoods for the owners and their families. However, the lack of public transportation, water scarcity, and limited job opportunities remain pressing issues.
Day 5: Seeing Climate Change Initiatives in Ankawa
Climate Change Responsive Schools Initiative.
Our next stop was the Ankawa Humanitarian Committee (AHC), where we explored their Climate Change Responsive Schools initiative. This project, funded by Embrace, empowers students to become climate leaders by raising awareness about environmental issues and promoting sustainable practices.
We visited several schools participating in the program and witness how these young leaders are taking tangible steps to combat climate change, such as using reusable water bottles and organising awareness events.
Climate change is hitting Iraq hard. Severe droughts, extreme heatwaves, and declining rainfall have reduced water levels in the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, threatening agriculture and livelihoods, especially for marginalised communities like Christians, Yazidis, and other minorities who often live in rural areas. Desertification and dust storms have also increased, making farming and daily life more difficult.
Recycling and environmental initiatives are still relatively new concepts in Iraq, and there is a limited national infrastructure for waste management and recycling. AHC’s work in raising awareness among youth represents a pioneering effort in a society where climate consciousness is just beginning to take root.
Day 6-7: Departing with gratitude and hope
As we boarded our flight back home, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness the incredible work being done by our partners in Iraq. Despite the challenges they face, their resilience, determination, and commitment to serving their communities are truly inspiring.
This trip reinforced the importance of listening to the needs of the communities we work with and finding innovative solutions to complex problems. I returned with a renewed sense of purpose and a commitment to supporting our partners in their efforts to create a brighter future for all Iraqis.
